中国和西方的酒文化The Wine Culture Between China and Wester5篇

第一篇：中国和西方的酒文化The Wine Culture Between China and Wester

中国和西方的酒文化

The Wine Culture Between China and Western Countries Abstract The wine，which plays an important role in the daily life, is familiar to human beings.People’s life becomes colorful with it.As regards the wine culture, there exists difference between China and the western countries.The raw material and drinking custom is different in terms of geography.There also exist similarities.Both China and western countries have some beautiful legends about the origin of wine and the symbol wine of spirit, leading to the birth of romanticism and the development of mainstream belief.The development of world wine culture depends on the intercommunication of different nations.Thus, communicating with other nations is helpful and indispensable to the development of wine culture.Three methods can be done to promote intercommunication.Nowadays, as we know, globalization is inevitable, so is the intercommunication of wine culture between countries.Key Words Wine culture;cultural difference;habit of drinking

摘 要

我们对于酒是非常熟悉的，酒在人们的日常生活中起着不可替代的作用，有了它人们的生活变的多姿多彩。关于酒文化，中国和西方存在着差异。酿酒的原料和喝酒的习俗根据地理位置的不同而不同的。尽管存在着差异，相似处也是有的。中国和西方都有一些关于酒的起源的美丽传说；世界文化现象有着惊人的相似之处，酒已不仅仅是一种客观物质存在，而是一种文化象征，即酒神精神的象征；都导致了浪漫主义的诞生和主流信仰的发展。酒文化的发展离不开各国的交流。和其它国家的交流对酒文化的发展是有利的，也是比不可少的。有三种方法可以增加国际间的交流。众所周知，现在全球化是不可避免的趋势，国际间文化交流也会成为全球化。关键词 酒文化；文化差异；饮酒习惯

Introduction The wine as an objective substance in the world is in the shape of water but it has the character of fire.It will brighten the bright and fool the fool.People, such as the emperors, the heroes, the liberators, the ordinary people, the beggars and the like, all like it since it appeared.Undoubtedly, the wine can be said as a riddle.People no matter in China or in western countries all have the habit of drinking wine.They regard drinking wine as an indispensable part of life.The formation way of wine culture is different in different countries.In China, the word for alcohol “jiu” is used to refer to all types of alcoholic beverages.Since long time ago China had have the stories about Du Kang who invented the method of brewing wine.A legend in western countries about the origin of wine is also spread.The wine culture was gradually formed after the appearing of wine.The phrase ”the wine culture“ is put forward by the renowned economist professor Li in China.In 1994, Xiao jiacheng said that the wine culture referred to the integration of material, technical, spiritual, custom, psychological, and behavior phenomenon which generated around the center.While we pride ourselves on the long history of wine culture we only to find that we depend excessively on the traditional wine culture.As a result we can not make any innovation.There is no development and progress without innovation.In this case, we can learn from the western countries.There are varied types of wine with different raw materials, such as Gin, Whisky, Vodka, Rum, and Brandy.Even the cocktail which appeared later is confected based on some types of the wine.It is generally acknowledged that China is far away from the western countries.As a result, the way to drink is different.Even in China, there is also some difference between nationalities on the way to drink.There is also some similarities of wine culture between China and western countries although the difference exists.For example, both China and western countries have a beautiful legend about the origin of wine.The development of wine spirit accompanied with wine culture.While wine culture developed to a certain degree, schools of ideology came into being.In order to push the development of wine culture we should do our utmost to promote the international communication of the wine culture.I．The Difference and Similarities of Wine Culture in China and in Western Countries A.The Difference of Wine Culture 1.The Materials

China is one of the three ancient countries in the world and has thousands of years of history to brew wine.Today, China is also famous for its masterly technology and distinctive style of wine and is more renowned for the long history and profound culture.The world people gradually realized the great value of wine culture of China as the rapid development of Chinese wine since the foundation of China.In China, the word for alcohol ”jiu“ is used to mean all types of alcoholic beverages, from ”pijiu“(beer)to liquors(just called ”jiu“)to grape wine(”putaojiu“).The origins of the alcoholic beverages from fermented grain in China can not be traced definitely.The distilled drink was not popular until the 19th century.Traditionally, Chinese distilled liquors are consumed together with food rather than drunk on their own.The wine can be generally classified into two types, namely, yellow liquors(huangjiu)or clear(white)liquor(baijiu).The yellow liquor is fermented wine that is brewed directly from grains such as rice or wheat.Such liquor contains less than 20% alcohol due to the inhibition of fermentation by ethanol at this concentration.This wine is traditionally pasteurized，aged, and filtered before their final bottling for sale to consumers.Yellow liquor can also be distilled to produce white liquor or baijiu.White liquor(baijiu)are also commonly called shaojiu, which means ”hot liquor“ or ”burned liquor“, either because of the burning sensation in the mouth during consumption and the fact that they are usually warmed before being consumed, or because of the heating requirements for distillation liquors of this type typically contain more than 30% alcohol in volume since they have undergone distillation.There are a great many varieties of distilled liquors, both unflavored and flavored.There are a large number of types of famous Chinese liquors and wines familiar to us, such as:

1.1.Feng Jiu--this wine was dated back to Northern and Southern Dynasties(5500 A.D.).It is the original Chinese white wine made from sorghum.Alcohol content by volume: 63--65%.1.2.Zhu Ye Qing Jiu--this wine is Fen Jiu brewed with a dozen or more of selected Chinese herbal medicine.One of the ingredients is bamboo leaves which give the wine a greenish color and its name.Alcohol content by volume: 46%.1.3.Mao Tai Jiu--this wine has a production history of over 200 years.It is named after its origin at Mao Tai town in Guizhou province.It is made from wheat and sorghum with a unique distilling process that involves seven iterations of the brewing cycle.This wine is famous to the western world when the Chinese government served this in state banquets entertaining the US presidents.Alcohol content by volume: 54--55%.1.4.Gao Liang Jiu--Gao LIang is the Chinese name for sorghum.Besides sorghum, the brewing process also use barley, wheat etc.The wine was originated from Da Zhi Gu since the Ming Dynasty.Nowadays, Taiwan is a large producer of sorghum.Alcohol content by volume: 61--63%.Mei Gui Lu Jiu(rose essence wine)--a variety of sorghum with distilling from a special species of rose and crystal sugar.Alcohol content by volume: 54--55%.1.5.Wu Jia Pi Jiu--a variety of guo liang jiu with a unique selection of Chinese herbal medicine added to the brewing.Alcohol content by volume: 54--55%.1.6.Da Gu Jiu--originated from Sichuan province with 300 years of history.This wine is made of sorghum and wheat by fermenting in a unique process for a long period in the cellar.Alcohol content by volume: 52%.1.7.Yuk Bing Shiu Jiu--a rice wine with over 100 years history.It is made of steamed rice and stored a long period after distillation.Alcohol content by volume: 30%.1.8.Shuang Jing(double distillation)and San Jing(triple distillation)Jiu--two varieties of rice wine by distilling twice and three times respectively.Alcohol content by volume: 32% and 38--39% respectively.San Hua(three flowers)Jiu--a rice wine made in Gui Lin with allegedly over a thousand years history.It is famous for the fragrant herbal addition and the use of spring water from Mount Elephant in the region.Alcohol content by volume: 55--57%.1.9.Fujian Glutinous Rice Wine--made by adding a long list of expensive Chinese herbal medicine to glutinous rice and a low alcohol rice wine distillation.The unique brewing technique uses another wine as raw material.The wine has an orange red color.Alcohol content by volume: 18%.1.10.Hua Diao Jiu--a type of yellow wine originates from Shaoxing, Zhejiang.It is made of glutinous rice and wheat.Alcohol content by volume: 16%.This is the raw material of wine in China.In western countries, the types of wine are varied so is the raw material Qinjiu(Gin), the first action of a special purpose for the spirits.Sylvius Docter, maker of this wine, was a professor of medicine well known in the Netherlands to Dayton University in the 17th century.He knew that the oil of Cadinene strawberry contained an element of diuretic which together with pure ethanol distillation to obtain cheaper diuretic drugs, and he succeeded finally.Not only medicine but it is a new species of wine.Qinjiu Types: The unique and different formula of Qinjiu used by the distillery.Qinijiu can be divided into 4 types according to brands, types, production.Netherlands Qinjiu(Holland)or(Dutch Gin), the taste is sweet accompanied with hot no matter it is pure to drink or to drink plus some ice.The two cases are both very tasty.It is basically made from malt.The flavor came from strawberry.It adds ice and a piece of lemon which is the best alternative of dry Martini.London Qinjiu(Tom Gin)or(London Gin): The sweet London Qinjiu is made with malt and grain as raw materials and primary products.Joseph Bournemouth Qinjiu: It is similar to London Qinjiu although with different flavor.British Qinijiu: This wine is not sweet and has not the original savor.The difference British and the United States is an important factor.The British Qinjiu has lower alcohol after distillation but it retains more grain characteristics of loe alcohol distillation.Secondly, the water, of course, Britain and the United States are different.Which mutually affect the characteristics of the technique and distilled spirits.Whisky The Characteristics of Whiskey: Whiskey is made from the smashed fermentation and distillation of grains and then placed into a barrel.Although any cereal can be used to brew whiskey, the most important materials are corn, hushed wheat, and barley.The Origin of Whiskey: At present, four major producing areas, namely, Scotland, Ireland, Canada and the United States.Most of these areas have produced whiskey named its origin in addition to Bourbon whisky and the United States blending whisky(Blended Scotch)and Light customers(Scotch whiskey)

The Types Whiskey: Scotch whisky, Single malt whiskey, Irish whiskey, Tennessee whiskey, Canadian whiskey Brandy Brandy's Character: Brandy is a mixture of fermentation and distillation of fruit juice and residue.Distilled alcohol content is less than 95% in order to retain its flavor and aromatic character.”Cognac“ Brandy: Cognac is a kind of Brandy wine distilled from wine in Cognac, French.It named by the French government law.Lyme wine(Rum): Islands of west Indies is the home of Rum wine where is abound in sugarcane.Rum is the first three words of Rum bullion which means excitement.Rum is distilled wine made from sugarcane as the raw material.It is different for the difference of producing area and the way to make it.It can be divided into three types according to the tint.It is one of the basic wines in confecting cocktail.The Origin of Rum: The producing area is mainly in the place where people speak Spanish and English, such as Puerto Rico, Jamaica, and Java along the East Indies.Puerto Rico Rum(Puerto Rico)which is famous for its light wine.Demerara Rum rather than Jamaica sales a large amount to the United States.Batavian Run(Batavian)is spicy Java Lime liquor.It is special because of the special flavor of honey, water, and the rice added to it to ferment.Hawaiian Rum(Hawaii)is the lightest available wine in the market which is made lately.It is the best beverages with orange juice.With ice and quinine water, Rum is the best beverages in the hot days.At present, ordinary Chinese people have always just used alcohol to help them celebrate the happiness in their lives.In China, a banquet known as ”jiuxi“ means an alcohol banquet and the life of every person, from birth to death, should have pauses for drinking banquets starting a month or 100 days after a baby's birth when the parents invite people in for a drink.When someone builds a new house, marries, starts a business, makes a fortune or lives a long life, he should invite people in for a drinking session.In modern times it is a pity that the games that go with drink are not the elegant ones of the past that involved poetry or music.Today, drinkers just play simple finger guessing games along with a lot of heavy drinking.It also seems today that friendship depends only on the volume of drink being consumed.”If we are good friends, then bottom up;if not, then just take a sip“ is a common phrased exchanged during gatherings.As we know, China has 56 nationalities and a wide range of territory.There is varied drinking custom for different nationalities.Korean ”aged wine“ The wine is brewing before ”Rosh Hashanah“ which is equal to the New Year of Han people.Rice is the main material of aged wine with the mixture of Ballad, Salamanders and cinnamon and other kinds of traditional Chinese herbal medicine.It is a wine similar to ”Su Tu Wine“ with different prescription medicines.It is used to drink during the spring and to treat people.Drinking this kind of wine is believed to live longevity.2.Major Holiday Drinking Customs Several major Chinese festival of the year have a corresponding drinking activities, such as the Dragon Boat Festival drink ”calamus wine“.Suspended drink ”chrysanthemum wine“.In some places, such as Jiangxi, people gathered to drink after planting the cereal crop or to celebrate the harvest time.Chinese New Year also is known as New Year's Eve.It is the day for family reunion to have the most sumptuous dinner of the year.Dinner and wine are essential to the even poorest family.In some places, people generally do not leave the house on the first day of the first lunar month.From the second day, people begin to drop around.The owner of the house takes the dishes which have been prepared earlier to the table and enjoy the wine with the guests.” liquor of daughter in the south“ According to the earliest record by the ”Southern Grasses“ that the southern people began to make wine when their daughter was several years old.Then they bury the brewed wine when their daughter got married.This kind of wine was inherited in Shaoxing and developed to be famous as ”Huadiao jiu“ Another difference exists in the custom of drinking wine.As is known to us, China is a big country with 56 nationalities and vast territory.Most of the nations have its own distinctive wine and custom of drinking wine.However, there still exists the common character: encouraging people to drink.While in western countries, no one will encourage you to drink.It is up to you to drink or not.No one would associate toasting people with the face.It there exists buying wine culture, that is, today I buy the wine for you in a bar;tomorrow you will buy for me.Wine culture brings about the difference of ideology of flows.Wine culture that caused great effect ion the east and west civilization is embodied in the feminism.In the west, fete is an important means of worship of wine.The housewives and girls gathered in wild mountains to dance and enjoy themselves the whole night.Women could communicate with any people.Although the man was discontented with this, he could not have any complaints.This tradition was handed down.As a result, women got almost the same status with the man in the west.The worship of wine came along with the mysterious worship of maternity, which rippled in the civilization of the west.It was not the case in China.Although at the beginning, the wine was brewed for the daughter of Yu, women were deprived of right of drinking wine by man.The girls in The Dream of Red Mansion mostly drank fruit wine.The liquor, repetitive of wine, was the patent of men, such as Jia Zheng.The status of women was gradually promoted after the spread of western culture during the period of Fourth Five.Women have the same right of drinking wine in modern times.B.The Similarities of Wine Culture 1.Having a Beautiful Legend about the Origin of the Wine.Although there is much difference of wine culture between China and western countries, we can not neglect the similarities.In the first place, both China and western countries have a beautiful legend about the origin of the wine.In China, some people think that Du Kang invented the method to make wine with a history of 4000years, while other people think that Yi Di was the first person to brew wine.However, there is a basically clear record about the origin of wine.In the west, though there is a not clear historical record, a beautiful legend about the origin of wine was handed down.It was said that an ancient Persian king sealed the remnant grapes in the barrel and labeled the word ”poison“ to prevent others from eating them.There was a concubine disfavored by the king and lived painfully opportunely to see the poison barrel and wanted to die at that time.She opened it and drunk for a few mouths.She felt not painful but a sense of intoxication when she was waiting to die.Then she told the king the matter.A test is unavoidable.This, of course, is a beautiful legend.But the wine, indeed, enhanced the enjoyment of mankind.2.The Wine is a Kind of Cultural Symbolism of Wine Spirit.In the second place, the world culture has the surprising similarities.In the realm of literature and art, the wine spirit is everywhere and affects the literature craftsmen deeply in that freeness, art and beauty is united.Freeness reaches art and art produces beauty.To get the free state of art with intoxication is an important channel to get rid of bind and get the ability of creation by the ancient Chinese arts.Without a doubt, wine occupies an important place in the culture and life of the Chinese people.Wine was intimately connected with most Chinese men of letters.It was also an inseparable part of the life of ordinary Chinese people.The banquets of ancient emperors and kings could not take place without it.Every sort of wine vessel thus became an important kind if sacrifice object.Inscriptions on bones and tortoise shells as well as bronze inscriptions preserve many records of Shang-era people worshiping their ancestors with wine.There were many famous Chinese poets or artist who crafted their masterpieces after getting ”drunk“.The famous poet Li Bai of the Tang Dynasty(AD618-907)is known as the ”Immortal of Wine“ because of his love for alcohol.Guo Moruo, a modern scholar, compiled statistics about Li's poems and found 17 percent of them were about drinking.Early writers liked drinking and thought it as an elegant way to pass the time.Apart from the taste of the drink, they also concentrated on the process of drinking.They created many games to go with drinking sessions involving knowledge of history, literature, music and poetry.In ancient times, before a battle, a general would feast his soldiers with alcohol and meat.If they won the battle, they would be rewarded with good wine.If a warrior fell in battle, his fellows would scatter wine on the ground as part of a memorial ceremony.Lastly, the similarities of ideology flows leads to the birth of Romanticism and the development of the mainstream beliefs.In the west, the worship of Bacus who is the divinity of wine is strengthened in the fight against civilization.The worshiper of Bacus disgusted in the produce of civilization.They longed for intoxication of the body and spirit.As a westerner put it, the great things of man in success mostly include the element of intoxication.The conflict between prudence and enthusiasm run through the history of the west, so does the worship of drinking wine.Nicai theorize this kind of worship.The romanticism philosophy of the west came into being.In the east, wine culture brought the effect of romanticism.Romanticism stood up to realism all the time although it had not the theoretic philosophy.Poetry is his primogenitor of romanticism in China.When it came to Liangjin, the romantic tinge of wine culture reached its first climax.During the Tang Dynasty, it reached its top.No matter representatives such as from Li Bai, Li Shangyin or Bai Juyi to Su Shi, Xin Qiji og song Dynasty to Zheng Banqiao of Qing Dynasty added abundant color to the brilliant civilization of China.3.The Development of the Mainstream, Beliefs In the west, romanticism brought in mysticism of Christianity.In the ancient Greece, a great many of faith was associated with Bacus.The worship of the muzzy Bacus was the origin of mysticism in the west, which affected many philosophers and brought enlightenment and to the shapement of theology of Christianity.In the east, the development of Taoism and Zen can not leave wine culture.Zhuang Zhou advocated the unity of heaven and man.He sings the absolutely free song with a cup in one hand and another hand writing poems after drinking wine.He would prefer to be the tortoise rather than the horse which was astrict by man.The essence and soul of the spirit of wine is in pursuit of absolute freeness and oblivion of interest and honor and shame.II.The Way to Promote the Intercommunication of Wine Culture A.Launching International Communication Conference The development of world wine culture depends on the intercommunication of different nations.On this matter, I give several suggestions as following:

Firstly, we should launch international communication conference about research of wine culture.At present, the research communication between professors and experts in especially French, Germany, and England and so on is little.Professors and experts exchange their ideas and views about wine and put forward new suggestions.It is an important and direct way to push the development of wine culture.Secondly, a worldwide organization should be set up to harmonize and guide the deed acted by nations.Regions and nations behave according to the rules regulated.B.Setting the Suitable Rules As we know, a proverb says without rules we cannot do things well.Thus it is necessary and important to set the suitable rules.Nations can communicate and behave well with the restrictions.C.Innovation Wine culture can not develop without innovation which is the gist of wine culture.China has a long history of brewing wine, which is proud by us.Meanwhile, we indulge ourselves in the success we have had and depend on the traditional wine culture excessively.Therefore, crisis is there.In order to keep the booming vitality of wine, obviously, the innovation is crucial.But what we should do innovate the wine culture.In my point of view, we should do as the following: To begin with, the combination of innovation of wine and idea.The consumption psychology of people is always changing.There is an increasing demand about the safety and sanitation of wine.The idea of green consumption occurs to people.As a result, we not only cater to the demand of trend, but also put our feet in the consumer's shoes.Secondly, the combination of innovation and technology.The innovation of culture can not;eave the development of technology.The big innovation and development of many professions is caused by the innovation of technology.The innovation of technology and technique push the development of the profession of brewing wine vigorously and base the solid foundation of the innovation of wine culture.Thirdly, the combination of innovation of wine culture and the management of firm.The history of abroad or domestic management of firm can be subdivided into three stages: ”experimental management“ ”scientific management“ and ”cultural management".It realized the big leap on management from experimental one to Tylor's scientific one.However, scientific management neglects the creativity and ability of man, which can not fit the demand of development.Thus, cultural management came into being.That whether the wine culture is a success or a failure is associated with the leader of the enterprise.The runner of the wine firm is different from the leader of the firm of making screwdriver.He should be an artist with high quality of culture and artistic taste.The fierce competition demands that they give direction and decision on the design of products, the direction of market, the selling and plan of market.It is also necessary for them to carry out the cultural management and innovation of management and make full use of resources including resource of mankind to infuse the color of culture in the product.Make sure the realization of innovation of wine culture successfully through innovation of management.This is one aspect and another aspect is that: In the first place, transfer the advantage of culture into the advantage of market.Transmitting culture is to exploit the market.The core of the wine market is health;safety and fashion which the enterprises need long time of penetration of culture and patient and dedicate cultivation of market.It advocates drinking wine in a scientific way and green consumption to guide man return to rationalism from the traditional wine culture, which advocates drinking wine in great amount.In the second place, transfer the advantage of market into the advantage of economic, society and zoology.The advantage of economic is the final embodiment of the advantage of market.Promoting the additional value of wine culture is a significant way to transfer the advantage of market into the advantage of economic.At the same time, it requires shat the effectiveness of society and zoology should be taken into account.We should strengthen the idea of sustaining development of firm and carry out green management and controlling of whole process and protect the mature during the process of carrying out the innovation of wine culture.Therefore, the vitality of wine lies in wine culture and fitting the progressive consumption culture, which is to keep pace with time.Conclusion The wine is the best present that God has given.Wine culture comes along with the birth of wine since wine appeared.Due to the difference of wine, regions and environment, the faith brought by wine culture also has more or less difference.At first, the wine in China was the sweet wine made from fruits.After that, man gradually found the grain which was used as the raw material of liquor.It was much better than sweet wine either in power or taste.Therefore, it is the mainstream to brew wine with grain as the raw material.At present, it refers to liquor when it comes to the wine of China.However, the wine in the west was brewed with barley the raw material firstly.Man began to brew wine with grape.The wine made man intoxicated and gradually became the mainstream of the west.And now, it refers to champagne and Brandy wit grape as the raw material.Drinking wine in China is the common phenomenon of different nations.Most of nations have its own characteristic wine and custom of drinking wine.The culture of drinking wine has endurable vitality and character.The research of drinking custom will promote the unity of nations and progress of civilization.In order to communicate with the consumer, it is necessary to promote the development of wine culture.The wine can popularize wildly and sell best according to the taste of consumer.The brewed wine is to be consumed by man.Consequently, people's suggestion about the way of brewing wine is vital, which is to make sure the wine is consumed with confirmation and agreement of consumer.Intercommunication is also crucial to the development of wine culture.Thus, increasing international communication is essential.Professors and experts can exchange their views and put forward new ideas about innovation of technology.A worldwide organization restrains the behavior of the members.Through this topic, the profound Chinese culture during the course of investigations will be appreciated.Consequently the Chinese wine culture will develop along with the development of the world wine culture.Acknowledgements I am gladly to take this opportunity to express my thanks to my tutor----Chen Jianghong, who offers me academic advices on composing this paper.Her patient help and timely encouragement are worthy of high acknowledgement.On the process of composing the paper, she also played an important role in indicating a bright road in my future writing.And I also would like to take this opportunity to thank Ms.Li Liqin, who is my thesis course teacher and gives me some advice on how to write a paper.At the same time, I would like to thank all the leaders and teachers of the School of Foreign Languages and Cultures.I do need to thank the persons who spend their time in reading my paper, and I will be grateful if you could give me your advice.Bibliography [1] Patrick McGovern.Ancient wine: the search for the origin of viniculture.Princeton University, 2000.[2] Haeger.North American Pinot Noir.Langman, 2004.[3] Patrick Matthews.Real wine: the rediscovery of natural winemaking.Mitchell Beazley, 2000.[4] Jeni Port.Crushed by women:women and win., Arcadia, 2000.[5] Jancis Robinson.Jancis Robinson's wine tasting workbook.Conran Octopus, 2000.[6] 王守国．酒文化与艺术精神[M]．郑州：河南大学出版社, 2006． [7] 铁流．中华酒文化大观[M]．北京：当代中国出版社, 2000． [8] 张爱敬．酒文化[M]．青岛：中国海洋大学出版社, 1999． [9] 张长兴．酒文化[M]．呼和浩特：内蒙古人民出版社, 2003．

[10] 赵荣光．中国传统酒人形象的历史异变[M]．香港：饮食文化研究出版社, 2002． [11] 蒋雁峰．中国酒文化研究[M]．长沙：湖南师范大学出版社, 2000． [12] 朱迪．带一只酒杯去巴黎[M]．北京：团结出版社, 2005． [13] Thomas Karlauf．突然想喝酒,微醺[M]．上海外文出版社, 2003． [14] 蕭曦清酒國春秋[M]．台北：台湾新生报出版社, 2001． [15] 韩胜宝．姑苏酒文化[M]．苏州：古吴轩出版社, 2000．

第二篇：西方葡萄酒文化

对西方葡萄酒文化的理解

姓名：邓小兰 学号：041140302 葡萄酒是用新鲜的葡萄或葡萄汁经发酵酿成的酒精饮料。通常分红葡萄酒和白葡萄酒两种。前者是红葡萄带皮浸渍发酵而成；后者是葡萄汁发酵而成的。

传说古代有一位波斯国王，爱吃葡萄，曾将葡萄压紧保藏在一个大陶罐里，标着“有毒”，防人偷吃。等到数天以后，国王妻妾群中有一个妃子对生活发生了厌倦，擅自饮用了标明“有毒”的陶罐内的葡萄酿成的饮料，滋味非常美好，非但没结束自己的生命，反而异常兴奋，这个妃子又对生活充满了信心。她盛了一杯专门呈送给国王，国王饮后也十分欣赏。自此以后，国王颁布了命令，专门收藏成熟的葡萄，压紧盛在容器内进行发酵，以便得到葡萄酒。

随着古代的战争和商业活动，葡萄酒酿造的方法传遍了以色列、叙利亚、小亚细亚阿拉伯国家。由于阿拉伯国家信奉伊斯兰教，而伊斯兰教提倡禁酒律，因而阿拉伯国家的酿酒行业日渐衰萎，几乎被禁绝了。后来葡萄酒酿造的方法从波斯、埃及传到希腊、罗马、高卢（即法国）。然后，葡萄酒的酿造技术和消费习惯由希腊、意大利和法国传到欧洲各国。由于 欧洲人信奉基督教，基督教徒把面包和葡萄酒称为上帝的肉和血，把葡萄酒视为生命中不可缺少的饮料酒，所以葡萄酒在欧洲国家就发展起来，因此法国、意大利、西班牙成为当今世界葡萄酒的“湖泊”，欧洲国家也是当今世界人均消费葡萄酒最多的国家。欧洲国家葡萄酒的产量，占世界葡萄酒总产量的80%以上。此外还有一说为葡萄酒起 源于希腊，在此就不叙述了。

下面介绍几个西方国家的酒文化：

法国的葡萄酒历史十分悠久，可追溯至公元前600年左右，希腊人来到了法国马赛地区，并带来了葡萄树和葡萄栽培技术。公元前51年，凯撒征服了高卢地区，正式地葡萄树栽培便在此展开。随着葡萄种植区域不断向北扩展，公元3世纪，Bordeaux和Burgundy开始为供不应求的葡萄酒市场酿制葡萄酒。公元6世纪，随着教会的兴起，葡萄酒的需求量急增，加之富豪对高品质葡萄酒的需求，加快了法国葡萄酒业发展的脚步。中世纪时，葡萄酒已发展成为法国主要的出口货物。19世纪时，法国的葡萄种植面积创历史新高。1855年，巴黎万国博览会对法国葡萄酒进行了著名的酒庄分级，将法国的美酒推向了世界。

当然，法国的葡萄酒发展并非一直畅通无阻，也曾遭受过重创。19世纪时，欧洲人十分狂热于收集北美洲的植物样本，使法国葡萄染上了白粉病，导致其数量和质量都大幅下滑。后来，根瘤蚜菌又袭击了法国，几乎摧毁了整个法国的葡萄树。而霜霉菌和黑腐病直到20世纪初才结束其对法国葡萄酒产业带来的困扰。

大家都知道，法国是世界著名的美食大国，美食与他们而言，不仅仅是生活片段，还是一种生活态度，甚至是一种基本的生活艺术，值得花费大量的时间精力来操办它，并乐此不疲。然而对于法国美食，无论是个人小酌还是宾主联欢，葡萄酒都是永恒不变的主题。法国平均每人每年消费一百多公升葡萄酒，基本上，在法国吃一餐要喝三次酒，即餐前喝开胃酒，餐中喝佐餐酒，餐后喝消化酒，当然这些酒都是以葡萄酒为主。其实早在1650年，法国巴黎就出现了最早的可饮酒咖啡馆，葡萄酒占了大部份。那儿通常拥有一个平台。在风和日丽的日子里，巴黎市民常会聚在其上畅饮欢歌并品尝美食。1789年，仅夏河内(Charonne)一地就拥有102家这样的咖啡馆。各式各样的人物在那里或**，或**，或吵架，或跳舞。那里是平民百姓寻找欢乐，忘却烦恼的地方。当然在18到19世纪的小说中，那里也是罪犯藏匿，娼妓出没的场所。ABistrot 小酒馆 这个名字往往能激起法国人无限的怀旧情思。同时，它也被留在了印象派的绘画作品中，留在了战前战后的黑白电影中。当让?加宾 JeanGabin 唱起当我们在河边散步这首歌时，时光仿佛又倒流回了那些已逝的岁月中。小酒馆温暖的场面其实一直深藏在法国人的记忆里。即使在今天，我们仍然能在法国见到许多被称为Abistrot或Atapas的小餐馆。人们不仅可以在那儿吃到简单的便餐，也往往会发现那里松软欢快的气氛更适合于朋友聚会和聊天。在时髦的大饭店里，客人们通常只能看见大牌的波尔多酒。但在小酒馆里，老板们却会教给客人们明智的选酒方法，从而招揽客人。

饱满，丰腴，厚实，芬芳，散发着溶化丹宁的芬芳和可可树细腻的清香，有如松树在林间跳跃的流畅，热烈透明得像渔夫的眼泪，这些饱含感**彩的语言表达了爱酒的人对葡萄酒的感受。法文中有大量的与葡萄酒有关的专用词汇，其分类之细致和精确程度令人吃惊。在法国甚至有专门的学校和专业研究品酒艺术，法国有世界上最好的3所培养种植、品尝、鉴定、管理和研究葡萄酒专业人才的学院。法国的葡萄酒文化十分发达，法国人的悠闲、懒散是世界闻名的，但法国人从葡萄的种植、酒的生产及贮藏、连品酒、饮酒到酒器和配餐等等都有深入细臻的涉及和研究，学问之广博，不得不令人为之感叹。法国政府和其它职能部门对葡萄酒的管理也近乎苛刻，甚至葡萄的种植密度、每年受阳光照射的时间、土壤的厚度、温度、贮藏在橡木桶中的时间等等，都有严格的明文规定。众所周知，决定葡萄酒好坏的6大关键因素是葡萄品种、气候、土壤、湿度、葡萄园管理和酿酒技术，而法国在这六大因素方面都具有无与伦比的优势。

正确的品酒方法则是法国葡萄酒文化中另一个不可忽视的细节。法国人普遍认为，如果在没有欣赏到葡萄酒的色泽和芳香之前就把酒喝下去就是放弃对喝酒最基本的享受，在拿起酒杯前，必须停止说话。品尝前，向上举起酒杯，用眼观赏美酒饱满、清澈、亮丽的色泽，轻轻晃动酒杯，让酒香散溢开；再用鼻子嗅一嗅，然后开始品尝这些优雅而近乎繁琐的葡萄酒品酒礼仪至今仍被尊为高级社交礼仪中的圭臬。

法国葡萄酒是法国优雅文化的表现，凝聚着法兰西的历史。作为世界政治、经济与文化大国，法国葡萄酒文化也影响着全世界人的生活方式与文化情趣。可以这么说，了解法国葡萄酒文化将有助于我们对法国文化的整体认识。

意大利的葡萄酒历史久远。共和制时代的雄辩家西塞罗，皇帝凯撒都曾沉迷于葡萄酒之中。由于维苏威火山爆发而一夜之间化为死城的废贝城的遗迹里，仍保留有很多完整的葡萄酒壶。据说古代的罗马士兵们去战场时，和武器一块儿带着葡萄苗，领土扩大了就在那儿种下葡萄。这也就是从意大利向欧洲各国传播了葡萄苗和葡萄酒酿造技术的开端。意大利的葡萄酒文化,代表着健康的 “地中海生活方式”，并且被世界各国的人们所学习和追捧。意大利之所以深受人们的爱戴，不光是他的尖端时尚，艺术设计，更重要的是由于它的渊源流长的历史和他的文化底蕴。当您走在意大利的街头，就好像置身于艺术的殿堂。这个有着史前时期的人类记录的文化古国，至今许多城市记载着世界重要的考古遗址。

在佛罗伦萨的乌菲齐美术馆，存放了一幅400年之久，世界著名《酒神巴克斯》的画像，他是由著名意大利画家”米开朗基罗·梅里西·达·卡拉瓦乔”所画。他半露右肩，头发缠绕着葡萄藤，左手轻微拿起盛满葡萄酒的酒杯，桌前摆放着各种水果和半瓶葡萄酒，脸色白中透红，神态优雅，眼睛微倾......让您感受到葡萄酒与艺术的充分融合。世界著名意大利画家达·芬奇笔下的《最后的晚餐》是一幅有500多年的，体现信仰的画作，在基督的故事里写道，由于上帝造人后没有办法控制他们的行为，看到人们整天争夺、玩乐，所以他派遣了他的儿子基督去拯救执迷不悟的人们，基督为了使人们看清他们的行为，在最后的晚餐中说道面包是他的身体，葡萄酒是他的血液，以牺牲他自己作为醒悟众人......流传至今,，已成为教堂做礼拜的仪式用语.可见葡萄酒与意大利人在心灵深处有着多么深厚的情感和意义。在意大利，关于葡萄酒的艺术巨作比比皆是，充分表明了葡萄酒在意大利生活的融入!意大利的葡萄酒文化不仅是 “地中海生活方式”的象征，从古至今更是融入生活的艺术，不管是从街头巷尾到典雅的殿堂，还是从美妙的民间音乐到名家巨著，意大利这个维美而古老的艺术国度，让您时刻感受着他独特的文化底蕴。葡萄牙有“软木之国”、“葡萄王国”的美称。葡萄牙软木及橡树制品居世界第一，自古以来盛产葡萄和葡萄酒。全国有葡萄园36万公顷，平均每5个农业劳动力就有一人种植。全国有18万人从事葡萄酒生产，年产葡萄10—15亿升，远销世界120多个国家和地区，成为世界上第4大产酒国，以波尔图出口的葡萄酒最负盛名。葡萄牙葡萄酒的历史早在公元前六百年葡萄牙已有葡萄酒，一些对酿酒有兴趣的人士，开始栽种葡萄园，自行酿制高级葡萄酒。因此，小规模酒农酿酒历史已有二千五百多年，真正普及却在公元前二百一十九年，罗马帝国的军队进入北部杜罗河谷，就是今天的波儿图酒区。今天，葡国博物馆还保存不少罗马时代的工艺品，石制的葡萄压榨工具，陶制的双耳瓶做的葡萄酒发酵和储存器皿。

罗马大军在占领葡萄牙时，在杜罗河谷大面积种植葡萄，酿成葡萄酒作为军需品，鼓舞军队士气，向其他国家进侵。葡萄酒的酿造技术得到极快的发展，所酿造的葡萄酒大部分供给军队，当地人士同样接受了葡萄酒的文化，葡萄酒成为杜罗河谷人时常生活的必需品。只因葡萄酒的酿造技术已经成熟，杜罗河谷到处都是葡萄园，到了公元一九五零年葡国中部也同样遍地葡萄园。

到一一四三年，葡国独立之后，葡萄酒酿造事业更加发达，葡萄酒开始出口，根据历史文献记载，有大量的葡萄酒出口关税和税务凭证及出口资料。葡萄牙，人们往往会顾名思义认为这国名是由于其盛产葡萄而来的。其实不然，葡萄牙是音译。不过它的确是名闻遐迩的“葡萄王国”。按葡萄牙人的饮食习惯，用餐时应尽量喝葡萄酒。葡萄酒与葡萄牙人结下了不解之缘，它是每个家庭必不可少的饮料。男女老幼饭前饭后都爱饮酒，也喜欢用酒招待客人。据说，在这个只有半个河南省大的小国家里，酒店就有36万家之多。葡萄牙人饮酒的方法很讲究，按葡萄牙的传统，饭前要饮用开胃葡萄酒;饭后要喝助消化葡萄酒;用餐过程中还根据菜肴配酒。吃肉时喝红葡萄酒;吃鱼时饮白葡萄酒;冷拼盘则配饮玫瑰香葡萄酒;吃点心时则配葡萄汽酒„„这种传统、严格的配酒方法，沿袭至今，成为人们商务宴请、社交场合和家庭饮宴时的一种礼节和习惯。葡萄牙人为什么如此重视和喜爱葡萄酒呢?他们说：“葡萄酒是大地和太阳的儿子，它振奋我们的精神，启发我们的智慧。”在葡萄牙，人称酒比水还便宜，酒精的成份也不高，因此，进食时同时喝些酒，绝不至醉酒。当然，到了闻名于世的产葡萄酒的葡萄牙，又醇又香、有口皆碑的佳酒确实值得一尝。

波尔图，重要海港。位于西北部的杜罗河北岸，市内宫殿教堂、博物馆、纪念碑、雕塑群像等比比皆是。城市建筑古色古香，有罗马式建筑波尔图大教堂、僧侣塔，著名的公共建筑水晶宫，有波尔图的象征、高75米的克莱里科钟楼。波尔图大学、地区档案馆、市立图书馆等是波尔图文化的重要象征。波尔图的葡萄久负盛名，全市有十几家酒厂，酿造的葡萄酒味美醇厚，远销欧洲和世界各地，使波尔图有“酒市”之称。

广义上来说。葡萄酒文化包括几千年来不断改进和提高的葡萄栽培管理技术、葡萄酒酿造技术，法律制度，酒俗酒里，饮酒器，饮酒器皿以及文人墨客所创作的与葡萄酒有关的书画、诗文、词句等，狭义上等葡萄酒文化则仅指葡萄酒品饮等礼节，风俗，逸闻等。

不同国家的葡萄酒发展都有其独特的历史背景与文化背景，好的葡萄酒并非单纯的复制，更需要文化的熏陶与浸淫。

第三篇：中国酒文化

中国酒文化

摘要：酒无论是在古代还是当今社会生活中都起重要作用，酒不仅可以让人们陶冶情操，得到味觉上的享受，而且代表的是一种独特的文化，使人们互相沟通了解。例如葡萄酒是国际社会公认的继英语之后的第二种社交语言,了解葡萄酒文化、礼仪和品酒常识不仅能表现自身的社会地位,还有助于与客户和外国友人沟通交往。【1】

关键词：酒的起源 酒文化 酒俗

一 酒的起源

谁也没见到酒最初是如何诞生的。古埃及有酒神奥西里斯,古希腊有酒神狄奥尼索斯,古罗马有酒神巴克斯,我国有黄帝、仪狄、杜康,都被认为是酒的发明者【2】。有“猿猴造酒”的说法，古籍《紫桃轩又缀》中说：“黄山多猿猴，春夏采杂花果于石洼中，酝酿成酒，香气溢发，闻数百步”。当然这是指自然发酵而成的酒，因为果皮上就附有天然酵母，果皮破裂后，酵母与果皮或果汁中的糖接触，发酵成酒。也许猿猴在捡到自然发酵的野果后，偶尔下意识地尝了一下，感到别有风味，于是捡果入洼供自享用，这是完全可能的事。

葡萄酒是世界上最早的饮料酒之一。犹太人，埃及人和希腊人都认为它是酒神恩赐予人类的。在《圣经》中，多处提到了有关葡萄酒的故事，这说明在人类有史以来，人们就发现了自然发酵而成的葡萄酒，尝后感到味道可人。并认为其是神力所致，将其作为祀神祭品。

关于葡萄酒的起源，众说纷纭，难以定论。有人认为，葡萄酒起源6000-7000年前的小亚西亚等地区。但多数的学者则认为葡萄酒的发源地是波斯（今伊朗）或埃及。从埃及金字塔的壁画中，可看到有描绘采摘葡萄及酿制葡萄的图案；在埃及4000年前的一个名叫“麦”的王子的坟墓中，也有一幅壁画，其描绘挤取葡萄汁的方法。

据考证我国在汉代（公元前206年）以前就已种开始植葡萄并有葡萄酒的生产了。司马迁著名的《史记》中首次记载了葡萄酒。公元前138年，外交家张骞奉汉武帝之命出使西域，看到“宛左右以蒲陶为酒，富人藏酒至万余石，久者数十岁不败“”。俗嗜酒，马嗜苜蓿。汉使取其实来，于是天子始种苜蓿，蒲陶肥饶地。及天马多，外国使来众，则离宫别馆旁尽种蒲陶，苜蓿极望”(《史记·大宛列传》第六十三)。

二 唐诗中的酒文化

“葡萄美酒夜光杯，欲饮琵琶马上催。醉卧沙场君莫笑，古来征战几人回”，中国古代谈及葡萄酒的诗，最著名的莫过于唐朝王翰这首《凉州词》了，盛在夜光杯里的葡萄美酒，更衬出“醉卧沙场”、征人不归的悲壮。唐代丰富的葡萄文化,不仅体现在诗歌创作中,也体现在诗歌所反映的葡萄、葡萄酒与唐代社会、文化中。唐诗不仅揭示出唐代葡萄、葡萄酒产地、葡萄文化传播地及唐代葡萄种植和酿造技术,也揭示出唐代丰富的葡萄文化内容。如葡萄称谓的写法,葡萄地名、人名的使用,丝织品葡萄纹图案,诗人拟景状物的素材,时人的葡萄、葡萄酒观念,拓边及边塞生活中的葡萄、葡萄酒特色,葡萄、葡萄酒中的风花雪月、胡风,葡萄酒酒具等。【3】

那么，诗里所说的“葡萄美酒”究竟是种什么样的酒，跟现代的葡萄酒是否一样呢？一般诗词选本注释这首诗，只笼统说“葡萄美酒”产自西域。由《凉州词》这个题目，以及“琵琶马上催”、“沙场”、“征战”等语，可知这种美酒确实应该与西域有关。而一般工具书解释古代的“葡萄酒”时，也比较笼统，比如《辞源》说是“用葡萄酿制的酒”，“汉时来自西域，唐时已能自酿”，《汉语大词典》解说稍详，云“用新鲜葡萄或葡萄干经过发酵而制成的酒”，并引《史记·大宛列传》、晋张华《博物志》等为例。殊不知，古代的葡萄酒并非只有一种，而来自西域的葡萄酒制法与中原地区旧有的葡萄酒制法尤其不一样。

明代李时珍著《本草纲目》卷二十五明确记载“葡萄酒有两样”，一种是简单地酿制而成的，“取汁同曲如常酿糯米法，无汗用干葡萄末亦可”，这也就是中原地区旧有的方法，据传汉代或三国时期就已开始制造，“魏文帝所谓葡萄酿酒，甘于曲蘖，善醉而易醒者也”。宋人朱翼中所著《北山酒经》也记载了酿制葡萄酒之法，比《本草纲目》所说要详细，说明了原料的份量、比例及具体制作工艺等，但可以肯定的是，用这样的方法酿成的“葡萄酒”并非现代意义的葡萄酒。

另一种葡萄酒的制法则类似烧酒，“取葡萄数十斤同大曲酿酢，取入甑蒸之，以器承其滴露，红色可爱”，据李时珍说，这种制法“古者西域造之，唐时破高昌始得其法”。《太平御览》卷九七二引《唐书》：“葡萄酒，西域有之，前世或有贡献，人皆不识。及破髙昌，收马乳葡萄实于苑中种之，并得其酒法。太宗损益造酒。酒成，凡有八色，芳辛酷烈，味兼醍醐。既颁赐群臣，京中始识其味。”《唐会要》、《册府元龟》等也引述了这段记载，文字略异。现代葡萄酒酿造技术告诉我们：葡萄只有被破碎，使果汁与果皮上的酵母接触后，才能发酵，除了自然酵母，还可以在葡萄浆汁里加入酒母。《本草纲目》所称的“大曲”，应该就是酵母或酒母。王翰诗中产于西域的这种美酒，其制法与现代葡萄酒酿造技术颇为相似，据周桓刚《白酒工艺学》、李约瑟《中国古代金丹术的医药化学特征及其方术的西传》等著述说，它就像是古代的白兰地或葡萄烧。也有专家认为，《唐会要》等书中描绘的那种西域葡萄酒，更像是现代葡萄酒中的桃红葡萄酒，其颜色介于红、白葡萄酒之间。

三 酒的分类

某种酒究竟应归为哪一类？可谓众说纷纭。例如，“味美思”酒，就有三说，有人将其列为葡萄酒类，（加香葡萄酒），有人把它列为“露酒”类，因为它的确是以葡萄酒为酒基添加药材浸泡而成的；有人认为它是一种补酒，甚至是一种药酒，这也不无道理。

以酒的生产方法和功用来分，一般可将酒分为饮料酒，补酒，药酒三种。补酒和药酒应列为非饮料酒，也可以说补酒是介于一般饮料酒和药酒之间的一类酒；依酒精含量来分，可以分为低度酒、中度酒、高度酒；以含糖量来分，可以分为甜型酒、半甜型酒、半干型酒、干型酒。

中国白酒按香型来分，可以分为酱香型白酒（亦称茅香型）、浓香型白酒（亦称泸香型）、清香型白酒（亦称汾香型）、米香型白酒、凤香型白酒。按用曲来分，可以分为大曲酒、小曲酒、麸曲酒、混曲酒。

葡萄酒按酒的颜色分，可以分为白葡萄酒、红葡萄酒、桃红葡萄酒、白葡萄酒、桃红葡萄酒（又名玫瑰红葡萄酒）、粉红葡萄酒、新红葡萄酒。按酒的含糖量来分，可以分为干、半干、半甜和甜葡萄酒。按酿制方法来分，可以分为天然葡萄酒、加强葡萄酒、加香葡萄酒。按用途及品质分，可以分为餐前葡萄酒（如干型白葡萄酒）、佐餐葡萄酒（一般葡萄酿制，吃饭饮用）、餐后葡萄酒（与点心一块饮用，酒度和糖度均较高，以提神醒脑。如红甜葡萄酒，白兰地等）、调和葡萄酒（用于勾兑和调配）、高级葡萄酒（风格典雅，质量高）。

四 中国的饮酒文化

我国悠久的历史，灿烂的文化，分布各地的众多民族，酝酿了丰富多姿的民间酒俗。有的酒俗留传至今。而“酒徒”称谓可能最初出现于战国阶段,而秦汉时期以“酒徒”自称者曾经有突出的历史表现。如《史记》卷九七《郦生陆贾列传》记述“高阳酒徒”郦食其故事最为著名。《汉书》记述郦食其自称“狂生”。所谓“狂生”,在某种意义上也可以视作《史记》“酒徒”的一种解说。司马迁笔下记录的酒宴场面,可见反映“酒徒”生活的具体情状。【4】

（1）传统的饮酒文化根基——酒德和酒礼

中国酒礼酒俗文化风情在中国古人中流传着一句俗话,叫做:“无酒不成礼,无酒不成敬,无酒不成席,无酒不成欢。”由此可见酒礼、酒俗在中国人民中的影响是何等之大。【5】

历史上，儒家的学说被奉为治国安邦的正统观点，酒的习俗同样也受儒家酒文化观点的影响。儒家并不反对饮酒，用酒祭祀敬神，养老奉宾，都是德行。

饮酒作为一种食的文化，在远古时代就形成了一很大家必须遵守的礼节。有时这种礼节还非常繁琐。但如果在一些重要的场合下不遵守，就有犯上作乱的嫌疑。又因为饮酒过量，便不能自制，容易生乱，制定饮酒礼节就很重要。

古代饮酒的礼仪约有四步：拜、祭、啐、卒爵。就是先作出拜的动作，表示敬意，接着把酒倒出一点在地上，祭谢大地生养之德；然后尝尝酒味，并加以赞扬令主人高兴；最后仰杯而尽。在酒宴上，主人要向客人敬酒（叫酬），客人要回敬主人（叫酢），敬酒时还有说上几句敬酒辞。客人之间相互也可敬酒（叫旅酬）。有时还要依次向人敬酒（叫行酒）。敬酒时，敬酒的人和被敬酒的人都要“避席”，起立。

（2）原始宗教、祭祀、丧葬与酒

从远古以来，酒是祭祀时的必备用品之一。原始宗教起源于巫术，在中国古代，巫师利用所谓的“超自然力量”，进行各种活动，都要用酒。在古代，统治者认为：“国之大事，在祀在戎”。祭祀活动中，酒作为美好的东西，首先要奉献给上天、神明和祖先享用。战争决定一个部落或国家的生死存亡，出征的勇士，在出发之前，更要用酒来激励斗志。我国各民族普遍都有用酒祭祀祖先，在丧葬时用酒举行一些仪式的习俗。汉族人在清明节为死者上坟，必带酒肉。在一些重要的节日，举行家宴时，都要为死去的祖先留着上席，一家之主这时也只能坐在次要位置，在上席，为祖先置放酒菜，并示意让祖先先饮过酒或进过食后，一家人才能开始饮酒进食。在祖先的灵象前，还要插上蜡烛，放一杯酒，若干碟菜，以表达对死者的衰思和敬意。（3）重大节日的饮酒习俗

中国人一年中的几个重大节日，都有相应的饮酒活动，如端午节饮“菖蒲酒”，重阳节饮“菊花酒”，除夕夜的“年酒”。过年，也叫除夕，是中国人最为注重的节日，是家人团聚的日子，年夜饭是一年中最为丰盛的酒席，即使穷，平时不怎么喝酒，年夜饭中的酒是必不可少的。吃完年夜饭，有的人还有饮酒守夜的习俗。

（4）婚姻饮酒习俗

南方的“女儿酒”，最早记载为晋人嵇含所著的《南方草木状》，说南方人生下女儿才数岁，便开始酿酒，酿成酒后，埋藏于池塘底部，待女儿出嫁之时才取出供宾客饮用。这种酒在绍兴得到继承，发展成为著名的“花雕酒”，其酒质与一般的绍兴酒并无显著差别，主要是装酒的坛子独特，这种酒坛还在土坏时，就雕上各种花卉图案，人物鸟兽，山水亭榭，等到女儿出嫁时，取出酒坛，请画匠用油彩画出“百戏”，如“八仙过海”，“龙凤呈祥”，“嫦娥奔月”等，并配以吉祥如意，花好月圆的“彩头” “喜酒”，往往是婚礼的代名词，置办喜酒即办婚事，去喝喜酒，也就是去参加婚礼。（5）其它饮酒习俗

“满月酒”或“百日酒”，中华各民族普遍的风俗之一，生了孩子，满月时，摆上几桌酒席，邀请亲朋好友共贺，亲朋好友一般都要带有礼物，也有的送上红包。“寿酒”：中国人有给老人祝寿的习俗，一般在50、60、70岁等生日，称为大寿，一般由儿女或者孙子，孙女出面举办，邀请亲朋好友参加酒宴。“上梁酒”和“进屋酒”：在中国农村，盖房是件大事，盖房过程中，上梁又是最重要的的一道工序，故在上梁这天，要办上梁酒，有的地方还流行用酒浇梁的习俗。房子造好，举家迁入新居时，又要办进屋酒，一是庆贺新屋落成，并志乔迁之喜，一是祭祀神仙祖宗，以求保佑。“开业酒”和“分红酒”：这是店铺作坊置办的喜庆酒。店铺开张，作坊开工之时，老板要置办酒席，以志喜庆贺；店铺或作坊年终按股份分配红利时，要办 “分红酒”。“壮行酒”，也叫“送行酒”，有朋友远行，为其举办酒宴，表达惜别之情。（6）独特的饮酒方式 饮咂酒：这是古代遗留下来的独特的饮酒方式，在西南，西北许多地方流传，在喜庆日子或招待宾客时，抬出一酒坛，人们围坐在酒坛周围，每人手握一根竹管或芦管，斜插入酒坛，从其中吸吮酒汁，人数可达五、六人甚至七八个人。饮酒时的气氛热烈。这种独特的饮酒方式，可以加强人与人之间的感情交流。（7）劝酒

中国人的好客，在酒席上发挥得淋沥尽致。人与人的感情交流往往在敬酒时得到升华。中国人敬酒时，往往都想对方多喝点酒，以表示自己尽到了主人之谊，客人喝得越多，主人就越高兴，说明客人看得起自己，如果客人不喝酒，主人就会觉和有失面子。有人总结到，劝人饮酒有如下几种方式：“文敬”、“武敬”、“罚敬”。“代饮”：即不失风度，又不使宾主扫兴的躲避敬酒的方式。本人不会饮酒，或饮酒太多，但是主人或客人又非得敬上以表达敬意，这时，就可请人代酒。“罚酒”：这是中国人“敬酒”的一种独特方式。“罚酒”的理由也是五花八门。最为常见的可能是对酒席迟到者的“罚酒三杯”。有时也不免带点开玩笑的性质。

（8）酒令（觞令）饮酒行令，是中国人在饮酒时助兴的一种特有方式。酒令由来己久，开始时可能是为了维持酒席上的秩序而设立“监”。汉代有了“觞政”，就是在酒宴上执行觞令，对不饮尽杯中酒的人实行某种处罚。但实行酒令最主要的目的是活跃饮酒时的气氛。何况酒席上有时坐的都是客人，互不认识是很常见的，行令就象催化剂，顿使酒席上的气氛就活跃起来。尽管酒令是依附在酒文化之中的产物,但它亦可被看做是一个单独的文化体系,是文化入酒的最好诠释。说起酒令,像“两只小蜜蜂„„”之类,现在恐怕连三岁的孩子张嘴都能说上几个,只是他们或许不知说的为何物罢了。但这丝毫不影响酒令的“推广”,即便是不善饮酒之人,有些喊起酒令来,比“三碗不过冈”之人甚至还有过之而无不及,还更胜一筹。因此可以说,尽管酒令是依附在酒文化之中的产物,但它亦可被看做是一个单独的文化体系,是文化入酒的最好诠释。【6】

五 酒之最

人类最先学会酿造的酒:果酒和乳酒。我国最早的麦芽酿成的酒精饮料：醴。我国最富有民族特色的酒：黄酒和白酒。我国最早的机械化葡萄酒厂：烟台张裕葡萄酿酒公司。我国最早的啤酒厂建于1900年，哈尔滨。我国最早的酒精厂建于1900年，哈尔滨。我国第一个全机械化黄酒厂：无锡黄酒厂 记载酒的最早文字：商代甲骨文。

最早的药酒生产工艺记载：西汉马王堆出土的帛书《养生方》。葡萄酒的最早记载：司马迁的《史记·大宛列传》。

现存最古老的酒：1980年在河南商代后期（距今约三千年）古墓出土的酒，现存故宫博物院。

目前产量最大的饮料酒：啤酒。目前国产价格最贵的酒：茅台酒。传说中的酿酒鼻祖：杜康、仪狄。

现已出土的最早成套酿酒器具：山东大汶口文化时期。最早的禁酒令：周代的《酒诰》。

参考文献：

【1】初铭宇 今日科苑, Modern Science, 编辑部邮箱 2010年 21期 【2】 晓娟.酒的起源与杏花村遗址[J].科学之友(上旬), 2011,(01)【3】陈习刚.唐诗与葡萄、葡萄酒[J].唐都学刊 , 2008,(05)【4】王子今.秦汉“酒徒”散论.西北大学学报(哲学社会科学版), 编辑部邮箱 2010年 06期

【5】黎莹.举世无双的中国酒文化(四)[J].食品与健康 , 2004,(03).【6】胡元骏.酒令 古今文化皆入酒[J].东方养生, 编辑部邮箱 2010年 12期

第四篇：中国酒文化

中国“酒文化”

中心词：“酒文化”“上天造酒说” “猿猴造酒说” “仪狄造酒说” “杜康造酒说”“酒礼酒德”“酒与诗歌”“禁酒令”。

内容提要：通过对中国古代社会关于酒的各种现象的浅淡分析，对中国酒文化作了初步探讨和解读，使得中国酒文化得以有了点点展现。

正文：酒，作为世界客观物质的存在，它是一个变化多端的精灵。它炽热似火，冷酷象冰；它缠绵如梦萦，狠毒似恶魔；它柔软如锦缎，锋利似钢刀；它无所不在，力大无穷；它可敬可泣，该杀该戮；它能叫人超脱旷达，才华横溢，放荡无常；它能叫人忘却人世的痛苦忧愁和烦恼到绝对自由的时空中尽情翱翔；它也能叫人肆行无忌，勇敢地沉沦到深渊的最底处，叫人丢掉面具，原形毕露，放诞不羁，口吐真言。

然而，在人类文化的历史长河中，它已不仅是一种客观物质存在，更是一种文化象征，即酒精神的象征。

在漫长的历史长河中，酒作为人类物质文化生活的重要组成部分，或敌或友，或损或益，从泪没有离开人类半步。中国是卓立世界的文明古国，是酒的故乡。中华民族五千年历史长河中，酒和酒类文化一直占据着重要地位。酒是一种特殊的食品，是属于物质的，但又同时融于人们的精神生活之中。酒文化作为一种特殊的文化形式，在传统的中国文化中有其独特的地位。在几千年的文明史中，酒几乎渗透到社会生活中的各个领域。下面就简单的论述一下酒与中国人的社会文化等各个领域的关系。

一关于酒产生的传说

（一）：“上天造酒说”

我们的祖先认为酒是“酒星”发明的，关于“酒星”的记载最早见于《周易》中，“酒星”又称“酒星旗”，《晋书》也有关于“酒星旗”的记载：“轩辕右角南三星曰酒旗，酒官之旗也”。这种传说来自于我们祖先丰富的想象力，同时展现了酒在先人们生活中的重要地位。

（二）：“猿猴造酒说”

在我国古代的典籍中，有许多关于“猿猴造酒说”的记载。唐人李肇所著国史补中记载猿猴机敏过人，常攀援于山石高崖之间，人们难以捕捉，经过细心的观察发现猿猴嗜酒，因此人们常采用酒引的办法来把猿猴灌醉，施以抓捕。清人李调元记载：“常于石岩深处得猿酒，盖猿以稻米杂百花所造”，清代另一种随笔小说中记载：“粤西平乐等府，山中多猿，善采百花酿酒”。这些不同时代，不同人的记载，虽难以考证其真假，但至少说明，在猿猴经常居住出入的地方多类似酒的东西出现。

（三）：“仪狄造酒说”

相传禹夏时期的仪狄发明了酒，《吕氏春秋》云：“仪狄作酒”，汉代刘向所辑《战国策》则直接记载：“昔者，帝女令仪狄作酒而美，进之禹，禹饮而甘之”。还有一种说法是：“酒之所兴，始于上皇，成于仪狄”意思是说在三皇五帝的时代就开始酿酒，只不过是仪狄将各种酿酒方法加以总结，使酿酒技术发扬过大。

（四）：“杜康造酒说”

东汉许慎《说文解字》云：“古者少康初作箕帚、秫酒。少康，杜康也。”宋人张表臣在《珊瑚钩诗话》中说：“中古之时，未知曲蘖，杜康肇造，爰作酒醴，可为酒后，秫酒名也。”晋人江统说：“酒之所兴，肇自上皇，或云仪狄，一曰杜康。”仪狄，大禹时代人；杜康，据说就是夏代国王少康。而杜康之名又盛于仪狄，故仪狄之名则彰而不显。杜康，作为中国的酒祖，历代受人敬仰。根据记载，有一次，杜康把剩饭放在空桑之中，日子久了，饭自然发酵，散发出一种芬芳的气味，并流出一种液体，杜康取而饮之，感觉其味甘美。杜康受此启发，发明了酒。

二：酒与民俗

（一）：“酒与婚丧习俗”

我国各族人民在婚丧嫁娶时都有用酒的习惯。

人死后，亲戚朋友都要来吊唁，汉族人习惯称为“吃斋饭”，即在丧葬期间举办的酒席，在酒席之间，酒是肯定少不了的东西。死者入葬后，必须要在墓室内或墓室外放些许酒，清明，年关等重要节日也要在死去的长辈坟墓上酹上几种酒以示敬意。举行家宴，亲人团聚，合家共聚时，用餐时必须要为死去的长者留出上位，并在上位敬上几杯酒以示怀念。

结婚嫁娶的喜宴酒就更是必不可少。婚礼的代名词就是喜酒，在结婚安排的整个漫长过程中，酒始终贯穿其中。

“会亲酒”，订婚时要摆的酒席，喝了“会亲酒”就表示男女双方的婚事已定，此后男女双方不得赖婚，悔婚。

“回门酒”，结婚后的第二天，新婚的夫妇要回到女方的娘家去探望，女方家要摆酒席以示欢迎，俗称“回门酒”，酒后就可以夫妻双双把家还了。

“交杯酒”，即在新婚的夜晚，新婚双方在正是洞房前所喝的酒，喝此酒时，夫妻双方举盏交互，头、杯、口相接。取“你中有我，我中有你”之意。新郎新娘喝完此酒后要恩恩爱爱，相敬如宾。

（二）：“酒德与酒礼”

饮酒作为一种饮食文化，在漫长的历史过程中形成了固定的饮酒习惯和礼仪。有些礼仪讲究是非常繁琐的，而这些礼仪又是必须要遵守的。在古代，我国形成了十分丰富的饮酒礼仪：

晚辈和长辈一起饮酒前，晚辈要行跪拜礼，然后依次入定后，长辈举杯后，晚辈才能随之举杯。长辈未饮尽，晚辈亦不能饮尽。

主人在和客人一起饮酒时，要相互跪拜。主人敬酒叫做酬，宾客回敬叫做酢，酬酢时相互之间要说上几句客气话，敬酒词等。有时还要依次敬酒，依次敬酒时，敬酒人和被敬酒人都要“避席”，起立，一般敬酒三杯为度。

三：“酒与诗歌”

饮酒想起诗，赋诗想起酒，酒和诗歌就像一对孪生兄弟。诗经是我国第一部诗歌总集，我们从中闻到了浓浓酒香。“清酒既载，驿牳既备，一飨一祀，以介景福”——《大雅·早麓》，在无法主宰自然的情况下，我们的祖先用酒祭祀上天，以祈求风调雨顺，稼穑丰收。“蕙肴蒸兮兰藉，奠桂酒兮椒浆。”——《九歌·东皇太一》从屈原的诗句中，我们可以清楚的看到，这位伟大的爱国诗人对酒也是情有独钟。

到了汉末，天下**，连年争战，“铠甲生虮虱，万姓以死亡。白骨露于野，千里无鸡鸣。”人们的生命，朝不保夕，故感慨良多。把酒临江，横槊赋诗的曹孟德，是个具有雄才大略的人，他希望平定各地的割据势力，统一河山，使天下出现大治，就可无忧无虑痛饮两杯。“对酒歌，太平时，吏不呼门。王者贤且明，宰相股肱皆忠良。”（《对酒》）人们讲究文明，讲究礼节。互敬互让，尊老爱幼，路不拾遗，无所争讼。国家的法度，公正无私，判刑合理，官吏爱民如子。老天爷体察善良的百姓，风调雨顺。他一边饮酒一边驰骋想像，为我们勾勒出一个人间乐园，可说是开了“桃花源”理想世界的先河。然而理想终归是理想，醉意过后，回眸人间，一片混乱。以有限的生命，去追求遥遥无期的目标，其难无异登天。

竹林七贤生于魏晋之际，政局不稳，文士动辄得咎。为逃避祸患，他们沉湎曲蘖。如果说饮酒是乐事，那么他们这一杯酒则是饮得很痛苦的。当时文人“结社集会”，少谈政治，而是以酒解愁。魏末“陈留阮籍，谯国嵇康，河内山涛，河南向秀，籍兄子咸，琅琊王戎，沛人刘伶，相与友善，常宴集于竹林之下，时人号为“竹林七贤”——《三国志》。他们一个个都是大酒徒，蔑视礼法，放浪形骸。嵇康是个憎恨虚伪，反对俗礼，不满黑暗统治的名士。他颇知言论不慎会招灾惹祸，但生性耿直，而酒后尤甚，故不免遇害。他的诗作虽然不多，但我们都看到他饮酒时欢乐的赞颂。

在中国古代的诗歌史中有一个人永远难以绕过，在中国的酒文化中也永远有一个人难以绕过，他就是李白。李白不仅是“诗仙”，而且是“酒仙”。“举杯邀明月，对影成三人。”“人生得意须尽欢，莫使金樽空对月。”“李白斗酒诗百篇，长安市上酒家眠.。”“天子呼来不上船，自称臣是酒中仙。”“抽刀断水水更流，举杯销愁愁更愁。”李白的一生是属于酒的一生，醉酒后的李白原形毕露，放荡不羁，敢不应皇帝的召唤，酒和李白是融为一体的，没有酒就没有李白的真实，正是酒的麻醉作用，使得李白可以绽放他内心的真，可以抒放自己的豪情，表现他对现世的不满和藐视。在“一杯复一杯”之中，在半醉半醒之间，李白笑傲地度过了他的一生。

四：“禁酒令”

与中国人极度喜爱酒截然相反的却是中国人一直都致力于禁酒，这也是非常独特的一种现象，其中的原因耐人寻味。

禁酒，即由政府下令禁止酒的生产，流通和消费。禁酒的目的主要是：减少粮食的消耗，备战备荒。这是历代历朝禁酒的主要目的。防止沈湎于酒，伤德败性，引来杀身之祸，禁止百官酒后狂言，议论朝政。

在中国历史上，夏禹可能是最早提出禁酒的帝王。相传“帝女令仪狄作酒而美，进之禹，禹饮而甘之，遂疏仪狄而绝旨酒。曰，后世必有以酒亡其国者。”——《战国策·魏策二》实证明夏禹的预见是正确的。夏商的两代末君都是因为酒而引来杀身之祸而导至亡国的。

西周统治者在推翻商代的统治之后，发布了我国最早的禁酒令《酒诰》。其中说道，不要经常饮酒，只有祭祀时，才能饮酒。对于那些聚众饮酒的人，抓起来杀掉。在这种情况下，西周初中期，酗酒的风气有所敛。

西汉前期实行“禁群饮”的制度，相国萧何制定的律令规定：“三人以上无故群饮酒，罚金四两”（《史记·文帝本纪》文颖注）。这大概是西汉初，新王朝刚刚建立，统治者为杜绝反对势力聚众闹事，故有此规定。

目前，由于一再攀升的酒价和醉酒驾驶所导致的交通事故频发，社会上关于禁酒的呼声甚嚣尘上。中国社会到底会不会禁酒，能不能禁酒成功，禁酒之后的中国人会怎么样，没有了酒的中国社会会是什么一番“景致”，我们不得而知。

第五篇：中国和西方的酒文化有较明显的差异

中国和西方的酒文化有较明显的差异:在酒的用料与品类上,中国最具特色、最著名的是用粮食酿造的粮食酒;西方则是用葡萄酿的葡萄酒。在酿造工艺上,中国讲究料、水、曲三者统一,采用固态、复式发酵法;西方以料为核心,采用液态、单式发酵法。在酒文化的核心上,中国视酒为工具,意不在酒;西方视酒为艺术品,意就在酒。造成这些差异的原因在于地理环境、物产、原料和生产方式、文化传统等的不同。关键词:酒文化;饮食文化;中西文化比较

酒作为一种饮品,得到大多数中外人士的满腔热爱。唐代诗人李白在《月下独酌》诗中理直气壮地说“:天若不爱酒,酒星不在天。地若不爱酒,地应无酒泉。天地即爱酒,爱酒不愧天”[1]。无论是中国还是西方国家,都创造出辉煌灿烂的酒文化,丰富了人类文化宝库。但是,如果仔细思考一下,就会发现中国和西方所创造的酒文化是有许多差异的,这里仅从三个方面进行比较研究。1 酿酒原料与酒品的差异在酒的用料与品类上,中国最具特色、最著名的是以粮食为原料酿造的黄酒、白酒,习惯上称作粮食酒;西方最具特色、最著名的是以葡萄为原料酿造的葡萄酒、白兰地等,不妨统称作葡萄酒。中国地域广大,气候温和,有许多良田沃土,极适宜农作物的耕种,农业发展极快,很早就成为农业大国,五谷类粮食产量大、品种多,人们便大量用粮食酿造出很有中国特色的白酒、黄酒。宋代以前,中国的政治、经济、文化中心在黄河流域,酿酒原料主要取用北方所产的小麦、高粱和粟等;从宋代开始,南方经济快速发展,中国的政治、经济中心南移,酿酒原料则主要取用江南等地大量出产的稻谷。如果把酒划分为发酵酒、蒸馏酒和混配酒三大类,在中国历史上,属于发酵酒的黄酒和属于蒸馏酒的白酒用的是五谷杂粮,属于混配酒的露酒、药酒又大多以黄酒或白酒为酒基

摘 要:中国和西方的酒文化有较明显的差异:在酒的用料与品类上,中国最具特色、最著名的是用粮食酿造的粮食酒;西方则是用葡萄酿的葡萄酒。在酿造工艺上,中国讲究料、水、曲三者统一,采用固态、复式发酵法;西方以料为核心,采用液态、单式发酵法。在酒文化的核心上,中国视酒为工具,意不在酒;西方视酒为艺术品,意就在酒。造成这些差异的原因在于地理环境、物产、原料和生产方式、文化传统等的不同。关键词:酒文化;饮食文化;中西文化比较

酒作为一种饮品,得到大多数中外人士的满腔热爱。唐代诗人李白在《月下独酌》诗中理直气壮地说“:天若不爱酒,酒星不在天。地若不爱酒,地应无酒泉。天地即爱酒,爱酒不愧天”[1]。无论是中国还是西方国家,都创造出辉煌灿烂的酒文化,丰富了人类文化宝库。但是,如果仔细思考一下,就会发现中国和西方所创造的酒文化是有许多差异的,这里仅从三个方面进行比较研究。1 酿酒原料与酒品的差异在酒的用料与品类上,中国最具特色、最著名的是以粮食为原料酿造的黄酒、白酒,习惯上称作粮食酒;西方最具特色、最著名的是以葡萄为原料酿造的葡萄酒、白兰地等,不妨统称作葡萄酒。中国地域广大,气候温和,有许多良田沃土,极适宜农作物的耕种,农业发展极快,很早就成为农业大国,五谷类粮食产量大、品种多,人们便大量用粮食酿造出很有中国特色的白酒、黄酒。宋代以前,中国的政治、经济、文化中心在黄河流域,酿酒原料主要取用北方所产的小麦、高粱和粟等;从宋代开始,南方经济快速发展,中国的政治、经济中心南移,酿酒原料则主要取用江南等地大量出产的稻谷。如果把酒划分为发酵酒、蒸馏酒和混配酒三大类,在中国历史上,属于发酵酒的黄酒和属于蒸馏酒的白酒用的是五谷杂粮,属于混配酒的露酒、药酒又大多以黄酒或白酒为酒基都离不开粮食。西方国家大多以畜牧业或商业为主、农业为辅,许多地方的气候和土壤等不适宜大多数农作物的生长,却十分有利于葡萄的生长,致使葡萄的产量和品质首屈一指,因此人们可以大量地酿造葡萄酒。以被称为西方文明摇篮的古希腊为例,它位于巴尔干半岛南部,三面环海,境内遍布群山和岛屿,大部分地区为贫瘠的坡地,属于地中海型气候,冬季温暖多雨,夏季炎热干燥,河流在夏季常干涸。这样的自然条件极不利于一般农作物的生长,许多农作物都难以成活,但葡萄的耐旱能力很强,于是希腊人就大量种植葡萄。另外,形成葡萄酒品质的精华物质大多存在于深层土壤的矿物质中,肥沃的土壤表层能够使葡萄树容易成活,不必把根扎入土壤深处,也就不能结出优质葡萄,生长在相对贫瘠土壤中的葡萄树由于把根扎入土壤深处,反而结出了优质果实。在西方众多的酒中,最具特色、最著名的属于发酵酒的葡萄酒和属于蒸馏酒的白兰地,它们用的几乎是百分之百的葡萄;属于混配酒的开胃酒、利口酒、鸡尾酒等也大多以葡萄酒为酒基,甜食酒则是属于加强型的葡萄酒。在古希腊,大量出产的葡萄酒就与橄榄油一起成为其主要经济命脉。一位学者说“:雅典的文明,建立在葡萄酒和橄榄油之上”[2]。从当代发酵的葡萄酒生产强国来看,意大利在1994年前后,全国约有110万公顷土地种植葡萄,生产葡萄酒九百多万吨, ,都离不开粮食。西方国家大多以畜牧业或商业为主、农业为辅,许多地方的气候和土壤等不适宜大多数农作物的生长,却十分有利于葡萄的生长,致使葡萄的产量和品质首屈一指,因此人们可以大量地酿造葡萄酒。以被称为西方文明摇篮的古希腊为例,它位于巴尔干半岛南部,三面环海,境内遍布群山和岛屿,大部分地区为贫瘠的坡地,属于地中海型气候,冬季温暖多雨,夏季炎热干燥,河流在夏季常干涸。这样的自然条件极不利于一般农作物的生长,许多农作物都难以成活,但葡萄的耐旱能力很强,于是希腊人就大量种植葡萄。另外,形成葡萄酒品质的精华物质大多存在于深层土壤的矿物质中,肥沃的土壤表层能够使葡萄树容易成活,不必把根扎入土壤深处,也就不能结出优质葡萄,生长在相对贫瘠土壤中的葡萄树由于把根扎入土壤深处,反而结出了优质果实。在西方众多的酒中,最具特色、最著名的属于发酵酒的葡萄酒和属于蒸馏酒的白兰地,它们用的几乎是百分之百的葡萄;属于混配酒的开胃酒、利口酒、鸡尾酒等也大多以葡萄酒为酒基,甜食酒则是属于加强型的葡萄酒。在古希腊,大量出产的葡萄酒就与橄榄油一起成为其主要经济命脉。一位学者说“:雅典的文明,建立在葡萄酒和橄榄油之上”[2]。从当代发酵的葡萄酒生产强国来看,意大利在1994年前后,全国约有110万公顷土地种植葡萄,生产葡萄酒九百多万吨,产量居世界第二;而葡萄酒产量居世界第一的是法国,1996年的总产量超过五千万吨,在整个酒类生产中占据绝对主要的地位。2 酿酒工艺的差异在酒的酿造工艺上,中国主要以粮食为原料,讲究料、水、曲三者统一,采用固态与半固态、复式发酵方法;西方主要以葡萄为原料,则重在讲究料为核心、桶和窖为保障,采用液态、单式发酵方法。五谷杂粮是固体物质,不能直接发酵,必须通过对粮食的浸渍、蒸煮、加入水和酒曲等,使淀粉糊化后再进行糖化、发酵而制成酒,在这过程中人的创造性劳动基本上起着主导作用。在中国流传着这样的俗语:料为酒之肉,水为酒之血,曲为酒之骨。它形象地说明了酿造粮食酒的三个关键:其一是原料。人们在长期的实践中逐渐发现,五谷杂粮与酒的品类、质量密切相关,如用糯米酿造的黄酒味醇厚、品质最好,用高粱酿造的白酒味很香,且酒精度和出酒率都比较高;而在白酒中,用玉米酿的甜,大米酿的净,大麦酿的冲。此外,人们还注意到,选用独具特色的土特产原料,对酿造风味独特的名酒至关重要。如四川古蔺的郎酒,最理想的原料是当地出产的古蔺高粱,因为它皮薄壳少、颗粒饱满、淀粉含量大,能酿出高品质的郎酒。关键之二是水。“美酒必有佳泉”,水的质量直接关系到酒的品质、风格等,为此人们特别注意识水性、知水味、选好水。宋代窦苹《酒谱》载,北魏时期“

产量居世界第二;而葡萄酒产量居世界第一的是法国,1996年的总产量超过五千万吨,在整个酒类生产中占据绝对主要的地位。2 酿酒工艺的差异在酒的酿造工艺上,中国主要以粮食为原料,讲究料、水、曲三者统一,采用固态与半固态、复式发酵方法;西方主要以葡萄为原料,则重在讲究料为核心、桶和窖为保障,采用液态、单式发酵方法。五谷杂粮是固体物质,不能直接发酵,必须通过对粮食的浸渍、蒸煮、加入水和酒曲等,使淀粉糊化后再进行糖化、发酵而制成酒,在这过程中人的创造性劳动基本上起着主导作用。在中国流传着这样的俗语:料为酒之肉,水为酒之血,曲为酒之骨。它形象地说明了酿造粮食酒的三个关键:其一是原料。人们在长期的实践中逐渐发现,五谷杂粮与酒的品类、质量密切相关,如用糯米酿造的黄酒味醇厚、品质最好,用高粱酿造的白酒味很香,且酒精度和出酒率都比较高;而在白酒中,用玉米酿的甜,大米酿的净,大麦酿的冲。此外,人们还注意到,选用独具特色的土特产原料,对酿造风味独特的名酒至关重要。如四川古蔺的郎酒,最理想的原料是当地出产的古蔺高粱,因为它皮薄壳少、颗粒饱满、淀粉含量大,能酿出高品质的郎酒。关键之二是水。“美酒必有佳泉”,水的质量直接关系到酒的品质、风格等,为此人们特别注意识水性、知水味、选好水。宋代窦苹《酒谱》载,北魏时期“,魏贾锵有奴,善别水,尝乘舟于黄河中流,以匏瓠接河源水,不过七八升,经宿颜如绛,以酿酒,名昆仑觞,香味妙绝”。到近代以后,绍兴黄酒,常常用运水船到鉴湖中心取湖心水来酿造,因为这种水的水质清澈、硬度适宜、含适量盐类,是优质酿造用水。茅台、郎酒、泸州老窖则离不开赤水河及河边甘甜、清冽的泉水。关键之三是酒曲。它含有大量的活性微生物与酶类,不仅是糖化发酵剂,而且能赋予酒特殊的风味和品质,是中国酿酒的重要而精妙之处。明代宋应星的《天工开物》言“:凡酿酒,必资曲药成信,无曲,即佳米珍黍,空造不成”[3]。为了得到高质量的酒曲,人们常常要虔诚地祭拜、精益求精地制作。《齐民要术》记载道:制曲要选择七月甲寅日,让儿童穿着青衣来和曲、团曲,摊放酒曲的地方要画上阡陌街巷、摆上用面粉捏的曲人和曲王,摊完酒曲后要给曲王供酒脯等食品,并读三遍《祝曲文》[4]。有了这三个关键因素作为基础,还需要酿酒师的妙手点化才能酿成酒。早在两千多年前的周代,人们就已经系统地总结出酿酒的6条原则“:秫稻必齐,曲檗必时,湛炽必洁,水泉必香,陶器必良

,魏贾锵有奴,善别水,尝乘舟于黄河中流,以匏瓠接河源水,不过七八升,经宿颜如绛,以酿酒,名昆仑觞,香味妙绝”。到近代以后,绍兴黄酒,常常用运水船到鉴湖中心取湖心水来酿造,因为这种水的水质清澈、硬度适宜、含适量盐类,是优质酿造用水。茅台、郎酒、泸州老窖则离不开赤水河及河边甘甜、清冽的泉水。关键之三是酒曲。它含有大量的活性微生物与酶类,不仅是糖化发酵剂,而且能赋予酒特殊的风味和品质,是中国酿酒的重要而精妙之处。明代宋应星的《天工开物》言“:凡酿酒,必资曲药成信,无曲,即佳米珍黍,空造不成”[3]。为了得到高质量的酒曲,人们常常要虔诚地祭拜、精益求精地制作。《齐民要术》记载道:制曲要选择七月甲寅日,让儿童穿着青衣来和曲、团曲,摊放酒曲的地方要画上阡陌街巷、摆上用面粉捏的曲人和曲王,摊完酒曲后要给曲王供酒脯等食品,并读三遍《祝曲文》[4]。有了这三个关键因素作为基础,还需要酿酒师的妙手点化才能酿成酒。早在两千多年前的周代,人们就已经系统地总结出酿酒的6条原则“:秫稻必齐,曲檗必时,湛炽必洁,水泉必香,陶器必良,火齐必得,兼用六物,大酋监之,无有差忒”[5]。即原料要充足,酒曲供应、制作要适时,浸泡、蒸煮要清洁,水质要清冽、无杂质,酿造器具要精良,蒸煮时的火力要适当。中国的酿酒技艺高超而精湛,巧夺天工,各种名酒各得其妙。如关于郎酒的民谣言“:郎酒好,有四宝:美境、郎泉、宝洞、工艺巧”。其巧妙的工艺在于2次投料、8次堆积糖化发酵、9次蒸煮、7次蒸馏、原酒在洞中贮存3年后进行勾兑等。然而,无论各种酒的酿造技艺多么千差万别,大都有浸渍、蒸煮、多次投料、固态及半固态发酵等特点,而这正是中国粮食酒酿造技艺的突出特色。西方酿酒常用的葡萄本身富含糖分和酵母,在12℃～30℃的温度下便自然发酵、生成酒精,果皮和果肉经过果汁浸泡则释放出葡萄酒的色素和持久的劲力,种子释放出单宁,赋予葡萄酒特有的涩味。这些刚经过酒精发酵的葡萄酒富含单宁酸,不能立刻饮用,还要贮藏在橡木桶和酒窖中,使风味逐渐变得成熟、完美。在葡萄酒的酿造过程中,葡萄起最重要的主导作用,人的劳动则起到重要的辅助作用。西方人常说,好酒出自好葡萄。葡萄的品种和质量,决定着葡萄酒的品质、特色和主要香型。在西方国家,可以酿酒的葡萄数以千计

,火齐必得,兼用六物,大酋监之,无有差忒”[5]。即原料要充足,酒曲供应、制作要适时,浸泡、蒸煮要清洁,水质要清冽、无杂质,酿造器具要精良,蒸煮时的火力要适当。中国的酿酒技艺高超而精湛,巧夺天工,各种名酒各得其妙。如关于郎酒的民谣言“:郎酒好,有四宝:美境、郎泉、宝洞、工艺巧”。其巧妙的工艺在于2次投料、8次堆积糖化发酵、9次蒸煮、7次蒸馏、原酒在洞中贮存3年后进行勾兑等。然而,无论各种酒的酿造技艺多么千差万别,大都有浸渍、蒸煮、多次投料、固态及半固态发酵等特点,而这正是中国粮食酒酿造技艺的突出特色。西方酿酒常用的葡萄本身富含糖分和酵母,在12℃～30℃的温度下便自然发酵、生成酒精,果皮和果肉经过果汁浸泡则释放出葡萄酒的色素和持久的劲力,种子释放出单宁,赋予葡萄酒特有的涩味。这些刚经过酒精发酵的葡萄酒富含单宁酸,不能立刻饮用,还要贮藏在橡木桶和酒窖中,使风味逐渐变得成熟、完美。在葡萄酒的酿造过程中,葡萄起最重要的主导作用,人的劳动则起到重要的辅助作用。西方人常说,好酒出自好葡萄。葡萄的品种和质量,决定着葡萄酒的品质、特色和主要香型。在西方国家,可以酿酒的葡萄数以千计,但真正能酿造出顶级、名贵葡萄酒的葡萄,只有十余种而已,著名的有赤霞珠、黑品诺、席拉夏多内等。其中,赤霞珠是酿造高贵红酒的葡萄之王,黑品诺是酿造名贵红酒的葡萄皇后。酿酒时对葡萄的选择,除了品种,还要看产地和年份,这意味着土壤、气候、产量等方面同样存在差异。相对贫瘠的土壤和适当地限制产量,是葡萄及葡萄酒品质的重要条件和保证。即使同样的葡萄品种,气候不同,所酿酒的品质也不同。用寒冷地区的葡萄酿的酒,品质秀雅;用温暖地区的葡萄酿的酒,酒力较强、酒体丰满。在完成了对葡萄的精心选择后,葡萄酒的酿造大多进入葡萄去梗破皮、压榨、发酵、培养、装瓶等阶段,而起重要作用的是橡木桶、酒窖和酿酒师的技术。橡木桶是发酵和培养葡萄酒的最经典容器。其木材多孔,外界的氧气缓缓渗入,包括酒精在内的挥发物质部分蒸发,使酒变得更加细腻、芳香;橡木释放出的辛香和单宁酸,给葡萄酒增添华美复合的润饰,使酒质不断成熟、稳定。米歇尔·爱德华在《红葡萄酒鉴赏手册》中指出,对于准备长时间藏酿的优质红酒,装瓶前常需在新橡木桶中藏酿一定时间,新橡木的用量,视葡萄的品种、年份和葡萄酒的劲度、精致度而定,因为它“就如烹调中的盐和胡椒粉一样:少则增味,多则坏事”[6]。酒成熟以后就必须离桶、装瓶,但无论装瓶前的培养阶段还是装瓶后的贮藏期间,只要没有饮用,酒窖都是葡萄酒最好的栖身之所,决定着葡萄酒的最终品质。任何好酒都需要经过较长时间的藏酿,葡萄酒在橡木桶中的陈化不是全部过程

,但真正能酿造出顶级、名贵葡萄酒的葡萄,只有十余种而已,著名的有赤霞珠、黑品诺、席拉夏多内等。其中,赤霞珠是酿造高贵红酒的葡萄之王,黑品诺是酿造名贵红酒的葡萄皇后。酿酒时对葡萄的选择,除了品种,还要看产地和年份,这意味着土壤、气候、产量等方面同样存在差异。相对贫瘠的土壤和适当地限制产量,是葡萄及葡萄酒品质的重要条件和保证。即使同样的葡萄品种,气候不同,所酿酒的品质也不同。用寒冷地区的葡萄酿的酒,品质秀雅;用温暖地区的葡萄酿的酒,酒力较强、酒体丰满。在完成了对葡萄的精心选择后,葡萄酒的酿造大多进入葡萄去梗破皮、压榨、发酵、培养、装瓶等阶段,而起重要作用的是橡木桶、酒窖和酿酒师的技术。橡木桶是发酵和培养葡萄酒的最经典容器。其木材多孔,外界的氧气缓缓渗入,包括酒精在内的挥发物质部分蒸发,使酒变得更加细腻、芳香;橡木释放出的辛香和单宁酸,给葡萄酒增添华美复合的润饰,使酒质不断成熟、稳定。米歇尔·爱德华在《红葡萄酒鉴赏手册》中指出,对于准备长时间藏酿的优质红酒,装瓶前常需在新橡木桶中藏酿一定时间,新橡木的用量,视葡萄的品种、年份和葡萄酒的劲度、精致度而定,因为它“就如烹调中的盐和胡椒粉一样:少则增味,多则坏事”[6]。酒成熟以后就必须离桶、装瓶,但无论装瓶前的培养阶段还是装瓶后的贮藏期间,只要没有饮用,酒窖都是葡萄酒最好的栖身之所,决定着葡萄酒的最终品质。任何好酒都需要经过较长时间的藏酿,葡萄酒在橡木桶中的陈化不是全部过程,要达到最佳饮用状态,更需要继续贮存、陈化。酒窖的理想温度是10℃～15℃,湿度是70%左右,要求背光、阴凉、通风良好等,因此常常显得阴暗、潮湿。置身于酒窖中的葡萄酒,常用软橡木做瓶塞,瓶口稍微向下、横放在酒架上,以防止瓶塞干燥开裂,影响葡萄酒的品质。在整个酿酒过程中,酿酒师的技术贯穿始终,其高超技艺主要体现在对原料演变过程中的最佳时机把握上。当葡萄成熟时,必须看准时间尽快采摘、精心挑选,然后压榨和取汁、使其直接发酵;而当发酵过的酒装入橡木桶培养以后,要定时、准确查看桶中酒质的变化,不能出现丝毫闪失;一旦发现葡萄酒在桶中培养成熟,就要立即装瓶、小心贮藏,同时密切注意酒窖的状况,为葡萄酒创造最好的贮藏环境。如果说,中国粮食酒的生命是各种原料组配、化合而成,酿造者如同一位化学大师的话,那么西方酿造葡萄酒,则是由胚胎孕育而成生命:葡萄好似孕育生命的胚胎,橡木桶如同母体,酒窖是使幼小生命成长、成熟的地方,而酿造者则是精心呵护生命成长、壮大的保育员。3 酒文化核心的差异在酒文化的核心上,中国人把酒当作工具,意不在酒;西方人把酒看作艺术品,意就在酒。中国文化中重要的组成部分是道家文化。道家思想看重今生, ,要达到最佳饮用状态,更需要继续贮存、陈化。酒窖的理想温度是10℃～15℃,湿度是70%左右,要求背光、阴凉、通风良好等,因此常常显得阴暗、潮湿。置身于酒窖中的葡萄酒,常用软橡木做瓶塞,瓶口稍微向下、横放在酒架上,以防止瓶塞干燥开裂,影响葡萄酒的品质。在整个酿酒过程中,酿酒师的技术贯穿始终,其高超技艺主要体现在对原料演变过程中的最佳时机把握上。当葡萄成熟时,必须看准时间尽快采摘、精心挑选,然后压榨和取汁、使其直接发酵;而当发酵过的酒装入橡木桶培养以后,要定时、准确查看桶中酒质的变化,不能出现丝毫闪失;一旦发现葡萄酒在桶中培养成熟,就要立即装瓶、小心贮藏,同时密切注意酒窖的状况,为葡萄酒创造最好的贮藏环境。如果说,中国粮食酒的生命是各种原料组配、化合而成,酿造者如同一位化学大师的话,那么西方酿造葡萄酒,则是由胚胎孕育而成生命:葡萄好似孕育生命的胚胎,橡木桶如同母体,酒窖是使幼小生命成长、成熟的地方,而酿造者则是精心呵护生命成长、壮大的保育员。